How to Sew a Hem for Beginners

A hem is when the edge of the fabric is folded and stitched. A hem is usually found at the bottom of skirts, trouser legs and sometimes sleeves.

How to Hem Skirts, Trousers & Dresses

Clothes are hemmed to finish the garment and to protect the bottom edges.

To get a straight hem the fabric needs to be folded evenly. The hem allowance needs to be even.

What is a hem allowance?

The hem allowance is the amount the fabric is folded to stitch a hem is called the Hem allowance.

  • On straight skirts the hem allowance is usually between 2.5cm – 4.5cm.
  • On a flared circular skirt, a rolled hem allowance maybe as little as 0.5cm. 

How to stitch a Hem

Hems are easier to stitch if folded, pinned and ironed into place first.

When sewing a hem, always stitch on the over-locked edge of the garment. This will help you sew straight and to stop the hem folding backwards when being worn.

Different Types of Hems

  • Straight Skirts: If the hem is straight, without any curve. Like on a mini skirt or trouser leg. The hem allowance can simply be folded, then ironed and stitched down.
  • ‘A’ line skirts: If the hem is slightly curved, like on a flared “A” line skirt. The hem needs to be gathered slightly, this is sometimes called adding gathering ease. To help the hem curve slightly before it is stitched down. 
  • Circular Skirts: If the skirt is very, very flared, like on a circular skirt. Ease does not need to be added to help the hem curve. Instead the hem is stitch as a rolled hem.

Top Tips:

When sewing clothes it is best to sew the hem last. First try on the garment before pinning the hem, to make sure it is the right length. Hems can be stitched longer or shorter depending on the size of the body.

How to Stitch Rolled Hem

When sewing a rolled hem:

  • Use a small hem allowance of 0.5cm.
  • Gradually fold the edge and stitch.
  • Try using a rolled hem foot to roll the hem.
  • Use a slight zig-zag stitch to secure hem. 

For more sewing tips subscribe below: